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What is the best temperature setting for a water heater ?
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| konstantinknight9 | Date: Th, 08/22/2024, 10:31 PM | Message # 1 |
 Plumber
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| Finding the Right Temperature for Your Water Heater explained.
Maintaining the correct temperature in your water heater is crucial for both safety and efficiency.
Ideally, your water heater should be set between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit.
Setting the temperature below 120 degrees increases the risk of bacterial growth in the stagnant water within the tank. Bacteria such as Legionella can thrive in these cooler temperatures, potentially leading to health issues.
On the other hand, temperatures above 140 degrees pose a different danger. Water at these high temperatures can cause scalding injuries in as little as two seconds, making it a safety hazard, especially for children and the elderly.
To balance safety and efficiency, aim for a water heater setting of around 120 degrees. This temperature helps prevent bacterial growth while minimizing the risk of burns, ensuring a safe and comfortable environment for your family.
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| Daniel S. | Date: Fr, 08/23/2024, 11:12 PM | Message # 2 |
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Group: Guests
| Do you recommend to set a water heater on a vacation mode when away.
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| konstantinknight9 | Date: Fr, 08/23/2024, 11:15 PM | Message # 3 |
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Plumber
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| When planning to be away from home for several days or more, it's wise to set your water heater to vacation mode. Also known as "Pilot" mode, this setting helps conserve energy and protects your home from potential damage.
Vacation mode reduces the temperature of your water heater, consuming less energy compared to maintaining a higher temperature. This adjustment can lead to significant energy savings while you’re away.
Setting your water heater to vacation mode helps prevent issues such as frozen pipes, corrosion, and sediment buildup in the heater’s plumbing. It also minimizes the risk of damage from leaks by reducing the heater’s activity.
Vacation mode strikes a balance between turning off the heater completely and keeping it at a high temperature. This setting provides just enough heat to prevent system damage without unnecessary energy use.
Typically, vacation mode adjusts the water heater to about 50°F, which is sufficient to avoid freezing but not warm enough for a shower. When you return, remember to increase the temperature at least one hour before using the water.
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| Ariel H. | Date: Mo, 09/02/2024, 10:57 PM | Message # 4 |
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Group: Guests
| We are not getting enough hot water for our household. What can it be ?
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| konstantinknight9 | Date: Mo, 09/02/2024, 11:08 PM | Message # 5 |
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Plumber
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| Troubleshooting Insufficient Hot Water.
Here are some common reasons for insufficient hot water and potential solutions:
1. Water Heater Size:
Is it too small? If your household has grown or you've added water-intensive appliances, your current water heater might not be able to keep up.
Solution: Consider upgrading to a larger water heater or exploring tankless options.
2. Sediment Buildup:
Over time, sediment can accumulate at the bottom of the tank, reducing its efficiency.
Solution: Flush the water heater regularly to remove sediment. Consult your owner's manual for specific instructions.
3. Thermostat Settings:Is the thermostat set too low? Ensure it's set to a temperature that provides adequate hot water.
Solution: Adjust the thermostat to a higher temperature, typically between 120°F and 140°F.
4. Leaks:
A leak in the water heater or plumbing system can cause water loss, leading to insufficient hot water.
Solution: Check for leaks around the water heater and pipes. If you find one, call a plumber to repair it.
5. Multiple Appliances:
Running multiple hot water-using appliances simultaneously can deplete the hot water supply.
Solution: Try staggering the use of appliances or consider installing a whole-house water heater if your current one is struggling to keep up.
6. Temperature Mixing Valves:
If you have a temperature mixing valve, it might be malfunctioning or set too low.
Solution: Adjust the valve or have it inspected by a plumber.
If you've tried these steps and are still experiencing issues, it might be time to call a professional plumber to diagnose and resolve the problem.
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| Ariel H. | Date: Tu, 07/28/2026, 5:34 AM | Message # 6 |
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Group: Guests
| Thanks, that's a helpful list. We do have a fairly large family (5 people) and the tank is only 40 gallons — sounds like that might be it. How do I figure out what size tank we actually need before I go shopping for a replacement?
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| plumber | Date: Tu, 07/28/2026, 5:35 AM | Message # 7 |
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| Good instinct — a 40 gallon tank is often on the small side for a household of 5, especially if people are showering back-to-back in the morning or running the dishwasher and laundry at the same time as showers.
Here's a simple way to size it:
Rule of thumb by household size (standard tank water heater):
- 1-2 people: 30-40 gallons
- 2-3 people: 40-50 gallons
- 3-4 people: 50 gallons
- 5+ people: 50-80 gallons
For a family of 5, I'd generally point you toward the 50-75 gallon range, depending on usage habits.
A few things that push you toward the higher end:
- Multiple showers happening back-to-back in the morning
- A soaking tub that needs a lot of hot water at once
- Simultaneous appliance use (dishwasher + laundry + showers)
- Teenagers in the house (usually means longer showers)
Also worth considering — First Hour Rating (FHR): this is actually more useful than tank size alone. It tells you how many gallons of hot water the unit can deliver in the first hour of use, factoring in both tank size and recovery rate. Look for an FHR in the 70-90 gallon range for a family your size.
One more option: if space or energy costs are a concern, a tankless water heater sized to your peak simultaneous demand (measured in gallons per minute, GPM) can solve the "running out of hot water" problem entirely, since it heats on demand rather than storing a fixed supply. It's a bigger upfront cost, but worth considering if you're already looking at replacing the unit anyway.
Either way, when you go shopping, tell the retailer your household size, number of bathrooms, and typical usage pattern (like "everyone showers between 6-8am") — that'll help them recommend the right size and type for your situation.
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| Ariel H. | Date: We, 08/12/2026, 4:42 AM | Message # 8 |
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Group: Guests
| This is great, thank you. Sounds like we're headed toward a 50-75 gallon replacement — we do have two teenagers and everyone showers between 6-8am, plus laundry usually running at the same time. Given all that, should we go straight for tankless instead, or is a bigger tank still the more practical choice for a busy household like ours?
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| plumber | Date: We, 08/12/2026, 4:43 AM | Message # 9 |
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Soldier
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| Given what you've described — simultaneous morning demand across multiple showers plus laundry — this is actually one of the more common scenarios where the tank vs. tankless decision gets genuinely close, so let me break down both sides for your specific pattern.
Case for a bigger tank (75-80 gallon):
- Straightforward, well-understood technology with lower upfront cost and simpler installation (usually no gas line upsizing needed).
- Handles your simultaneous-use pattern fine as long as it's sized generously — a large tank has a big reserve to draw from during that 6-8am window, even if recovery can't quite keep pace in real time.
- The tradeoff: if the whole family's usage genuinely overlaps for 2 hours straight, a tank (even a big one) can still eventually dip in temperature toward the end of that window, especially in colder months when incoming water is colder to start.
Case for tankless:
- No storage limit — since it heats on demand, it can theoretically supply hot water indefinitely as long as it can keep up with your peak simultaneous GPM (gallons per minute) draw.
- For a household with 2 teenagers + laundry all overlapping, you'd want a higher-capacity unit (sized for roughly 3 fixtures running at once: multiple showers + a washing machine), which usually means a larger, more expensive unit and confirming your gas line and venting can support that higher BTU demand — worth having a plumber assess this specifically, since undersizing a tankless unit for your actual peak demand recreates the same "runs cold" problem you're trying to escape.
- Tankless costs more upfront and sometimes needs infrastructure changes (gas line, venting), but never runs out, and tends to last longer (15-20 years vs. 8-12 for tank).
My honest take for your household specifically: given that your peak demand is a genuinely overlapping, multi-fixture, sustained 2-hour window (not just two showers back-to-back), you're in the profile where tankless tends to pay off best — this is exactly the kind of household that outgrows even a large tank's reserve capacity over time. I'd get a plumber out to assess your existing gas line/venting and calculate your actual peak GPM need before deciding, since that will tell you the real cost difference between "big tank" and "properly sized tankless" for your home specifically.
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| Guest | Date: Th, 08/13/2026, 3:02 AM | Message # 10 |
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Group: Guests
| Does a tankless water heater save money if my family uses a lot of hot water?
We're considering replacing our old tank water heater with a tankless model because our family uses a lot of hot water every day.
I understand that a tankless water heater only heats water when it's needed, but I'm wondering if the higher installation cost is actually worth it for a large household.
How much energy can a tankless system realistically save compared with a traditional 50-75 gallon tank? Are there situations where a larger conventional tank would actually be more economical?
What should I consider besides the purchase price when comparing the two options?
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| plumber | Date: Th, 08/13/2026, 3:03 AM | Message # 11 |
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Soldier
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| Does a tankless water heater save money if my family uses a lot of hot water?
A tankless water heater can reduce energy consumption because it doesn't continuously heat and maintain a large tank of stored hot water. However, whether it saves enough money to justify the higher installation cost depends on your household's water usage and the specific equipment.
For a large family with frequent hot-water use, tankless can be attractive because there is no fixed tank capacity. The system heats water as it is needed, so you don't have to wait for a large storage tank to recover after several showers.
The important issue is proper sizing. A tankless unit has a maximum flow rate, measured in gallons per minute (GPM). If several showers and appliances operate simultaneously, the unit must be capable of providing enough hot water at that peak demand. An undersized system can still produce disappointing results.
Installation costs can also be higher. Depending on the model, the existing gas line, venting, electrical supply, or other components may need to be upgraded.
A conventional 50-75 gallon tank can still be the more economical choice when the initial installation cost is the main concern and the household's hot-water demand is relatively predictable.
For a large household with sustained, overlapping hot-water demand, I'd compare the total cost of ownership, including installation, energy use, maintenance and expected service life, rather than looking only at the purchase price.
Before choosing a system, have the installer calculate your peak hot-water demand and confirm that the home's gas supply and venting can support the proposed tankless unit. That will give you a much better comparison between a properly sized tankless system and a larger conventional water heater.
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| Guest | Date: Sa, 08/15/2026, 3:59 AM | Message # 12 |
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Group: Guests
| Is a heat pump water heater a good option for a family of five?
We're replacing our 40-gallon gas water heater because we're regularly running out of hot water. We've been comparing a larger 75-gallon tank with a tankless system, but now I'm also seeing heat pump water heaters.
Would a heat pump water heater be a practical choice for a family of five with heavy morning hot-water use? How does its recovery rate compare with a traditional gas water heater?
Are there any special requirements, such as enough space around the unit, a condensate drain, or a suitable electrical circuit?
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| plumber | Date: Sa, 08/15/2026, 4:00 AM | Message # 13 |
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Soldier
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| Is a heat pump water heater a good option for a family of five?
A heat pump water heater can be a very efficient option, but the important thing is to choose a model with enough storage capacity and first-hour rating for the household's peak demand.
Unlike a conventional gas water heater, a heat pump water heater moves heat from the surrounding air into the water rather than generating heat directly. This can significantly reduce energy consumption, but recovery can be different from a high-input gas unit.
For a family of five with several people showering during the same morning period, I would pay close attention to the manufacturer's First Hour Rating (FHR) rather than looking only at the tank's gallon capacity. Your actual usage pattern matters more than simply having a large tank.
There are also installation requirements to consider. Heat pump water heaters generally need adequate surrounding air volume or appropriate ducting, a condensate drain, and a properly sized electrical circuit. They can also produce some airflow noise and cool/dehumidify the room where they are installed.
The biggest advantage is operating efficiency. If the home has suitable space and electrical service, the lower operating cost can make a heat pump water heater attractive over its service life.
For this particular household, I'd compare three options:
- 75-gallon conventional tank — simplest and familiar, with strong recovery depending on the burner.
- Properly sized tankless — excellent for sustained simultaneous demand, but may require gas-line and venting modifications.
- Heat pump water heater — potentially much lower energy use, but requires suitable installation conditions and careful sizing.
Before buying, compare the FHR, recovery performance, energy rating, installation requirements and total installed cost, rather than choosing solely by tank size. The family's two-hour morning demand makes proper sizing especially important.
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| Guest | Date: Sa, 08/15/2026, 11:30 AM | Message # 14 |
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Group: Guests
| Would a hot water recirculation system be worth installing in a large house?
We have a large family and several bathrooms, and one of our biggest annoyances is having to wait a long time for hot water at the bathrooms farthest from the water heater.
We're considering a hot-water recirculation system so hot water is available more quickly at the fixtures.
Does a recirculation pump significantly increase energy or water usage? Is it better to use a timer, a temperature-controlled pump, or a demand-activated system?
Would a recirculation system make sense with either a large tank water heater or a tankless unit?
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| plumber | Date: Sa, 08/15/2026, 11:31 AM | Message # 15 |
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Soldier
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| Would a hot water recirculation system be worth installing in a large house?
A hot-water recirculation system can be very useful in a large home, especially when bathrooms are located far from the water heater. Instead of allowing cooled water to remain in the hot-water line, the system circulates water back toward the heater, reducing the wait for hot water.The main tradeoff is energy use. A continuously running recirculation loop can lose heat through the piping, particularly if the hot-water lines aren't well insulated. That's why a timer or demand-controlled system is usually preferable to running the pump 24/7.A demand-activated system can be particularly efficient. The pump starts when hot water is requested and shuts down once the loop reaches the desired temperature. A temperature sensor can also prevent unnecessary operation.For a large household, I'd consider:- Timer-controlled: simple and inexpensive, but the pump may run when nobody needs hot water.
- Temperature-controlled: maintains the loop within a desired temperature range.
- Demand-controlled: generally the most water- and energy-conscious option because circulation occurs when hot water is actually needed.
With a tank water heater, recirculation can work very well, but the additional heat loss becomes part of the heater's workload.With a tankless water heater, recirculation requires more careful design because the heater needs to recognize the circulation demand and operate correctly at low flow. Some tankless models are specifically designed to work with recirculation, while others may require an external control strategy.I'd also insulate the hot-water recirculation piping. That reduces heat loss and makes the system considerably more efficient.For a large home, the biggest benefit may actually be water conservation: instead of running a faucet for several minutes waiting for hot water, you get usable hot water much sooner.So if the problem is long wait times at distant bathrooms, a properly designed demand-controlled recirculation system with insulated piping can be a worthwhile upgrade. It should be evaluated together with the water heater rather than treated as an entirely separate system.
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| Guest | Date: Fr, 08/28/2026, 1:43 AM | Message # 16 |
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Group: Guests
| Can a hot water recirculation system cause a tankless water heater to cycle on and off?
I’m considering installing a hot water recirculation system because the bathrooms in my house are far from the water heater.
I have a tankless water heater, and I’ve heard that some recirculation systems can cause the heater to turn on frequently when nobody is actually using hot water.
Can this increase energy consumption or shorten the life of the heater? What type of recirculation system works best with a tankless water heater?
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| plumber | Date: Fr, 08/28/2026, 1:44 AM | Message # 17 |
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Soldier
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| Can a hot water recirculation system cause a tankless water heater to cycle on and off?
Yes. A recirculation system can cause a tankless water heater to cycle if the system is not designed and controlled correctly.
Tankless water heaters generally need a minimum flow rate before they activate. A recirculation loop can create repeated low-flow demand, causing the heater to start and stop more frequently than necessary.
This is why compatibility between the tankless water heater and the recirculation system is important. The existing discussion already points out that some tankless models are specifically designed for recirculation, while others require an external control strategy.
A continuously running recirculation pump can also increase energy consumption because heat is constantly lost through the hot-water piping. If the pipes are poorly insulated, the heater may need to replace that lost heat throughout the day.
For most homes, I would consider one of these approaches:
- Demand-controlled recirculation: the pump operates only when hot water is needed.
- Timer-controlled recirculation: useful when hot-water demand follows a predictable schedule.
- Temperature-controlled circulation: the pump operates when the loop temperature falls below a selected level.
A demand-controlled system is often the most efficient option because it avoids circulating hot water when nobody needs it.
Before installing one, check whether your tankless water heater has a built-in recirculation mode or dedicated recirculation connections. The manufacturer's instructions should also specify the required controls and minimum flow conditions.
Proper insulation of the hot-water circulation piping is important as well. It reduces heat loss and allows the system to deliver hot water more efficiently.
If you're experiencing frequent cycling already, don't assume the recirculation pump is the only possible cause. Low-flow fixtures, incorrect temperature settings, a dirty inlet filter or other plumbing restrictions can also affect tankless operation.
The best setup is a properly matched tankless heater and demand-controlled recirculation system, with well-insulated piping. The goal should be to reduce waiting time for hot water without making the heater run continuously when nobody is using it.
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| Guest | Date: Su, 08/30/2026, 0:40 AM | Message # 18 |
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Group: Guests
| Can hot water recirculation waste water if the return loop is not installed correctly?
We are considering adding a hot water recirculation system because the bathrooms farthest from the water heater take a long time to get hot water.
I understand that a recirculation loop can reduce waiting time, but I'm wondering whether a poorly designed system could actually waste more water or cause other problems.
What are the most common installation mistakes with hot water recirculation systems? Should the return line be insulated, and is a dedicated return pipe always necessary?
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| plumber | Date: Su, 08/30/2026, 0:41 AM | Message # 19 |
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| Can hot water recirculation waste water if the return loop is not installed correctly?
A properly designed recirculation system should reduce the amount of water wasted while waiting for hot water. However, poor design or incorrect controls can reduce those benefits.
One common problem is allowing the circulation pump to run continuously. The pump itself may use relatively little electricity, but constant circulation creates continuous heat loss from the hot-water piping. The water heater then has to replace that lost heat. The previous discussion in this thread recommends timer-controlled or demand-controlled operation rather than running the pump 24/7.
Another important issue is the return path. A traditional dedicated recirculation system uses a separate return pipe from the end of the hot-water loop back to the water heater. Some systems use alternative crossover valves where installing a dedicated return line isn't practical.
The piping should also be properly insulated. Without insulation, a recirculation loop can lose a considerable amount of heat before the water reaches the fixture, increasing energy consumption and reducing efficiency.
Common problems include:
- oversized circulation pumps;
- incorrect pump controls;
- missing or inadequate pipe insulation;
- improperly located return connections;
- inadequate check valves;
- excessive circulation temperature;
- poor balancing in systems with multiple branches.
For a large home with several bathrooms, balancing is particularly important. Otherwise, one branch may receive plenty of circulation while another remains slow to deliver hot water.
A demand-controlled system is often a good option because circulation occurs only when hot water is actually needed. This can reduce both water waste and unnecessary heat loss.
If you're planning a new installation, I'd have the plumber determine the actual pipe lengths, flow requirements, pump size and return configuration rather than simply installing the largest available circulation pump.
The goal of a recirculation system is not to keep hot water moving constantly. It is to make hot water available quickly while minimizing unnecessary water use, heat loss and pump operation.
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| Guest | Date: Th, 09/03/2026, 12:15 PM | Message # 20 |
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Group: Guests
| How much does insulating hot water recirculation pipes help?
I have a hot water recirculation system because some of the bathrooms in my house are far from the water heater. The system provides hot water quickly, but I'm concerned that the hot water lines are constantly losing heat.
Does insulating the recirculation pipes make a noticeable difference in energy consumption? Should I insulate the entire hot water line or only the return line?
Are there any areas where the pipes should not be insulated?
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| plumber | Date: Th, 09/03/2026, 12:16 PM | Message # 21 |
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Soldier
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| Insulating hot water pipes can reduce heat loss and help a recirculation system operate more efficiently. This is especially useful when hot water is being circulated regularly through a large house.
The greater the distance between the water heater and the fixtures, the more opportunity there is for heat to be lost through the piping. Insulation helps keep the water warmer as it travels through the system, reducing the amount of heat the water heater needs to replace.
For a recirculation system, consider insulating:
- The hot water supply piping
- The dedicated recirculation return line
- Accessible sections of pipe in basements, crawl spaces, garages, or other cooler areas
The insulation should be appropriate for the pipe temperature and installed according to local requirements and the insulation manufacturer's instructions.
Insulation alone, however, does not solve the problem of unnecessary circulation. If the pump operates continuously, the system can still consume energy even with insulated pipes. A timer, temperature control, or demand-activated control can reduce unnecessary circulation.
It's also important to keep insulation clear of components that require proper operating temperatures or servicing access, and to follow local plumbing and fire-safety requirements.
For a large home, the most efficient approach is usually a combination of properly insulated hot-water piping and intelligent pump control. This reduces heat loss while ensuring the recirculation system operates primarily when hot water is actually needed.
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| Guest | Date: Su, 09/06/2026, 1:38 AM | Message # 22 |
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Group: Guests
| Do I need a mixing valve on my water heater?
I recently increased my water heater temperature because we were running out of hot water during busy mornings.
Now I'm concerned that the water at the faucets may become too hot, especially for children and older family members.
Would a thermostatic mixing valve allow me to keep the water heater at a higher temperature while delivering safer water at the fixtures?
How does a mixing valve work, and does it need regular maintenance?
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| plumber | Date: Su, 09/06/2026, 1:38 AM | Message # 23 |
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Soldier
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| A thermostatic mixing valve can be useful when you want to store water at a higher temperature but deliver cooler, safer water to the faucets.
The valve mixes hot water from the heater with cold water before the water reaches the fixtures. It uses a temperature-sensing element to maintain the selected outlet temperature.
This can provide several benefits:
- Helps reduce the risk of scalding
- Allows a higher storage temperature in some installations
- Can provide more usable hot water from the tank
- Helps maintain a more consistent temperature at faucets and showers
However, a mixing valve should not be treated as a substitute for properly setting and maintaining the water heater. The valve must be correctly sized, installed and adjusted for the plumbing system.
If the valve becomes clogged with mineral deposits or its internal components wear out, the outlet temperature can become inconsistent. A sudden change in shower temperature can sometimes be related to the mixing valve rather than the water heater itself.
It's also important to check the temperature at several fixtures after installation. Don't assume that the temperature setting on the valve is exactly the temperature being delivered.
For a household with children, elderly residents, or anyone particularly vulnerable to burns, controlling the maximum hot-water temperature is especially important.
If you're considering raising the water heater temperature to increase available hot water, discuss the installation with a qualified plumber. They can determine whether a thermostatic mixing valve is appropriate and make sure the water heater, valve and plumbing system are configured safely.
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| Guest | Date: Mo, 09/14/2026, 3:47 AM | Message # 24 |
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Group: Guests
| Does insulating hot water pipes really make a difference?
I have a water heater that is working normally, but the hot water has to travel a fairly long distance to reach some of the bathrooms.
Would insulating the hot water pipes reduce heat loss and help hot water arrive faster? Are there any situations where pipe insulation could cause problems?
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| plumber | Date: Mo, 09/14/2026, 3:48 AM | Message # 25 |
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Soldier
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| Yes. Insulating hot water pipes can reduce heat loss as water travels from the water heater to the fixtures.
Without insulation, hot water gradually loses heat through the pipe walls and surrounding air, especially when the pipes run through a basement, crawl space, garage, attic, or other unconditioned area.
Pipe insulation can provide several benefits:
- Less heat loss while hot water is traveling through the plumbing
- Faster delivery of usable hot water at distant fixtures
- Reduced energy wasted reheating cooled water
- Lower heat loss from hot-water recirculation systems
- Better temperature stability at fixtures
Insulation is particularly useful on long hot-water runs and on recirculation piping. It can also be helpful around the first several feet of hot-water piping leaving a tank water heater, provided the installation follows the manufacturer's requirements.
However, insulation does not eliminate the waiting time caused by the volume of water already sitting in a long pipe. If several gallons of cooled water are between the heater and a distant bathroom, that water still has to leave the pipe before hot water arrives.
For a large home with long plumbing runs, insulation works especially well when combined with an appropriately designed demand-controlled recirculation system.
Use insulation that is rated for hot-water piping and install it according to local plumbing requirements. Avoid blocking access to valves, fittings, shutoffs, or components that need regular service.
It's also important to address exposed pipes correctly. Insulating a hot-water pipe is different from protecting a pipe against freezing, so the appropriate material and installation depend on the location and purpose.
If your main complaint is that hot water takes several minutes to reach a distant bathroom, insulating the hot-water piping can be a relatively simple improvement. If the delay is excessive, however, it may be worth evaluating the pipe layout and considering whether a properly designed recirculation system would provide a greater benefit.
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